🔗 Share this article Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than We Were Decades Ago. A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine. "It was the peak of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy." While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is in good company. In recent times, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere." A Cultural Backslide This regression is difficult to overlook: the growth of far-right politics, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the return of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the late 90s, currently a different political force appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again. For Enninful, the antidote has always been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the core philosophy behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of prominent faces from literature. "Those in a position of influence should use it," he asserts, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this phase will pass." A New Wave of Consciousness He finds hope in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was." The beginnings of his career would define a groundbreaking career characterised by boldness and representation. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Critically, sales grew. "Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises. Beyond the Magazine World He has recently launched his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor". "My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds." Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His life has not been immune to adversity, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use. He has also undergone significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion." Curating a Cultural Era This drive to fit into a box has propelled him beyond the world that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who lacked a spotlight at the time. "The establishment didn't always promote the truly innovative creators because they did not have the expected background," he states. This venture itself operates on a different business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision." Looking Forward Without Fear Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach." He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."
A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine. "It was the peak of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy." While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is in good company. In recent times, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s everywhere." A Cultural Backslide This regression is difficult to overlook: the growth of far-right politics, the reaction against so-called "wokeness", and the return of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the late 90s, currently a different political force appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again. For Enninful, the antidote has always been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the core philosophy behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of prominent faces from literature. "Those in a position of influence should use it," he asserts, discussing those publishing choices. "People often debate about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a welcoming country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this phase will pass." A New Wave of Consciousness He finds hope in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was." The beginnings of his career would define a groundbreaking career characterised by boldness and representation. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Critically, sales grew. "Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises. Beyond the Magazine World He has recently launched his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his first major project since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor". "My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds." Contrary to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His life has not been immune to adversity, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use. He has also undergone significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion." Curating a Cultural Era This drive to fit into a box has propelled him beyond the world that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who lacked a spotlight at the time. "The establishment didn't always promote the truly innovative creators because they did not have the expected background," he states. This venture itself operates on a different business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision." Looking Forward Without Fear Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward make of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. Back then I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach." He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my whole career. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."