Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
